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Sunday, December 9, 2012

Reflections on May


Part 2 of my mom's visit...



The second half of my mom’s visit was spent checking out some of Norway. Between the time we left France and the following morning back in Bergen, La Momma had become very ill. Our first day back in Norway was actually the 17th of May, the equivalent of the US’s 4th of July and is similar in many ways…except Norwegians dress up in the traditional national attire called bunad or in very nice clothes if they don’t own a bunad($$$$). But because my ma was so sick, she stayed at home, alone, in bed, without eating anything all day. I felt terrible for leaving her but she insisted I go because she had known how long I had been looking forward to this holiday.

So off to the city I went, where I met up with my most wonderful friends, Mariann and Eric, along with a homefriend of Eric’s who I recognized from our flight back to Bergen the previous day. That was so random but pretty awesome. Throughout the day, I ran into a few other friends of mine and felt, in some small ways, as though I had finally become really incorporated into the Bergen society. But at the same time I definitely did not blend in because I (obviously) do not have the traditional attire and my language skills are still pretty pathetic. Loved the holiday though, loved the patriotism, loved the clothes, loved it all.

The day was spent enjoying the parade in the rain and checking out all of the beautiful bunads around town. After the parade, I brought my friend Maria-Elena back to the island to show her very elaborate bunad to my mom so she could get some feel for the Norwegian culture. I then took Maria-Elena up to her aunt and uncle’s house, where I checked out their bunads and sampled a bit of traditional 17th of May cuisine – some dried salted meat leg and a porridge made of the Norwegian equivalent of sour cream. Interesting stuff – the porridge was amazing but the meat was not to my liking. Then the rest of the day was spent back at the Zachrisen household, eating hot dogs (very popular in this country and very different than American ones), and watching Big Bang Theory. My mom had not eaten ALL day, when out of nowhere she asks if she could have one of the PopTarts that she had brought for me from ‘Merica. Of ALL things that lady could want to eat that day, she wants a PopTart. Of ALL things…

She felt much better the next morning so I forced her to get up and walk around Bergen with me, mainly so she could meet Mariann. We rounded off our time in Bergen with a dinner with the Zachrisens and Mariann at a very traditional Norwegian restaurant along the harbor…where neither of us actually ordered Norwegian food. Hah, soo American of us. Then we were off to the airport for part two of her visit….

We spent that night in the northern city of Ålesund, a picturesque town that often makes it onto lists of Places to See Before You Die. It’s pretty but we were there at an off time of the year, so much of our experience was empty streets and closed businesses. At this point in our trip, we only actually slept there (we returned once more later on), as we boarded a Hurtigruten ship into the dramatic Geiranger fjord the following morning.

The ride in into the fjord was a handful of hours and the scenery was fantastic! This was an early-season trip for the area so the sights weren’t even up to the normal par. The trip itself attracts a lot of visitors wanting to see the Seven Sisters waterfall…that seems to be the name of a billion land features around the world. But for Norway, it’s famous. Alas, it was barely a trickle of 5 or so sisters at the time that we drifted past. I’m not too worried about it though, it was still very beautiful.

Geiranger turned out to be the world’s tiniest town. Ever. Probably. So, so small but quaint and empty (again, off-season = not much happening). Oh-so-conveniently, our hotel was basically the highest point of the town and there were no taxis in sight. Luggage in tow, we trekked up the one road in town, winding up the slope at the very end of the fjord. It wasn’t suuuper far but the luggage made it really quite annoying.

Our hotel was pretty nice from what I remember – really all that mattered was the view, and it was fantastisk (‘fantastic’ in English for those who need translation). More specifically, the sunset was out of this world! As the sun lowered behind the mountains of one side of the fjord, we watched the last slanted rays of light glow upon the snow-covered mountains lining the opposite side of the fjord. All peachy and rosy and all those good sunset colors. We also watched what was possibly (maybe mayyybe?) a rescue from one of the mountains closest in our view. It was a bit too far for the naked eye to see, but with the utilization of camera zoom technology we were able figure out that we were watching a person being towed along a long line underneath a helicopter. Who knows though, Norwegians love extreme sports so it may as well have been someone out for a joy ride.

Seeing as the town was so very small, our day had been relatively uneventful. The most notable occurrence was our visit to a little chocolatier along the water called Chocolate With a View. Tiny little old building with plants growing all over the roof – really idyllic – owned and run by a young Swedish guy who just really, really loves chocolate. So then we strolled the rest of the town in approximately 0.4 seconds, give or take a few milliseconds, and walked back up to our hotel for a super fancy, high-class buffet which we were certainly underdressed for. Who knew such an elaborate meal would take place in such a remote hotel?!

Because Geiranger really is super teeny and the lingering winter (it was May at the time but there’s still tons of snow) prevented the most famous attraction of Geiranger (some crazy fancy road named something to do with an eagle) from being accessible, we only stayed just the one night. Post-breakfast and pre-departure, we ventured out on a short hike along the creek that cascades down the entire mountainside to the fjord below. It was short-lived but very pretty. The Geiranger goods within the tourist shops occupied the rest of our time up until we boarded another Hurtigruten ship that took us out of the fjord and back to Ålesund.

Aboard this ship, we were able to better enjoy our time lounging outdoors (the weather was nasty cold the previous day) and we befriended a young-ish lone Canadian woman who had also been on the ship with us the day before and would be on the same route the next day, as well. When we arrived in Ålesund, the three of us perused the picturesque, empty town, climbed the steep hill overlook (excellent view, where all the pictures of the little city are taken from), then settled in a restaurant for some dinner…we had a lot of time to kill.



I reckon Ålesund would have much more appeal at a different time of year. We were there on a Sunday, during the spring, just three days after the biggest national holiday. People were few and far between. Since we had walked nearly all of the town worth walking (said our Canadian friend who had spent multiple days there before Geiranger) and our next ship would not be departing until QUARTER til ONE AM (!!!), we spent quite a bit of time hanging out in hotel lobbies with other folks waiting for the ship. In the meantime, at 11pm we watched the most raspberry sunset you can imagine. Norway has some of the most impressive sunsets when the weather is good.

We survived the wait and we boarded our final ship to Bergen. Our room was insanely tiny (about 2/3 the size of the room I had to myself on my Hurtigruten excursion in the Arctic Circle) but whatevah it was just for one night. The next morning we woke up, packed, and left our room to spend the day lounging around on the top deck with our Canadian friend, an old Austrian diplomat and his chatty wife, and the most outgoing old Californian man with Norwegian heritage and his formerly-Broadway wife. What a crew!! But first, we all snagged a free buffet breakfast, which should have actually cost 330kr per person….I’ve spent way too much time on those ships that I know how to harmlessly work the system. ;)

Once back in Bergen, we opted to hang out around the island and go for a walk across the bridge to visit my “beach” on the neighboring island, Tyssøy. Simple day with great weather. And then my mom was headed back to CA the next morning. I even watched her plane take off while I was sitting in my front yard…what a weird feeling knowing my mom was in that tiny metal tube in the sky, flying back to a home I haven’t seen in so long (over a year now)…but it was a good trip and it was nice to see that old lady!

One last little sidenote – I would like to share the story of my mother’s first and only cooking attempt in Norway. HAH. That woman can cook pretty decently, as you probably all know…but it’s a whole different ballpark here. Thinking back to my first few months in Norway, I remember my struggle to re-learn how to cook familiar foods with different ingredients that I was never quite sure of. So, seeing as I had not had my mom’s cooking in such a long time, I asked/forced her to cook risotto her first night here. Let’s just say it was a good effort followed by an epic fail. Not saying she sucks at cooking or anything! It was just so entertaining witnessing the master experience the same thing I experienced when I was new here. Sometimes it can be tough living abroad.

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